Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Niterider Digital Pro-12 E Bicycle Light Battery Rebuild

The Niterider Digital Pro-12 E bicycle light is such a well built system that with regular use the rechargeable battery will die long before the light has lost it's useful life. Since this light was originally built battery technology has greatly advanced and the new Li-Ion technology has pretty much taken over in this area and many pre-built battery pack are available from suppliers that work well to rebuild the battery for this light.



The Niterider Digital Pro-12 E bicycle light battery is pretty simple and no electronics "in" the battery so the light head itself has all the electronics in it. Therefore if you can supply it with an agreeable current it will work. This is not the case with the next generation lite from Niterider called the Niterider Digital Pro-12 LCD which came with a "Smart" battery with electronics and a control board in the battery so you cannot just drop in a battery pack, soder it up and be in business.


The pack I found is a 14.8 volt 4400 mill amp Li-Ion battery back that is already pre-assembled with a PCB control board that these new batteries require. These also require a new charger but it a reasonable cost item. The original battery was a 13.2 volt but the light is capable of handling the higher voltage and it makes the light a little brighter. I am in the process of buying a 13.2 volt regulator and will update when it is installed.

Here is the link for the battery:

http://www.all-battery.com/li-ion18650148v4400mahpcbpreotectedrechargeablebatterywithbareleads.aspx

Here is the link for the charger:

http://www.all-battery.com/universalfastsmarttlp3000chargerforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack148v4cells.aspx

Basically all you do is:

1 - break open the battery by jabbing and working around a thin metal piece at the junction of the top cap and battery case bottom to break the glue bond

2 - Twist the top off to expose the old battery.

3 - Cut the two leads close to the old battery connections

4 - Take out the old batteries and the spray foam used to hold them in place.

5 - Slide in the new battery pack - It will ovalize the base a little but will be corrected enough when you screw back on the top cap.

6 - Put some shrink rap on the leads and then soder them black to black and the red to the white.

7 - Slide the Shrink wrap down and heat with a flame.

8 - Twist the cap back on.

9 - Cut the old charger connector off and connect it to a removable lead supplied with the charger. (You will not be using the old charger any more.

10 - Select the 14.4 volt level on the charger and plug it in to charge the battery.

11 - Enjoy.

3 comments:

Bill Street said...

Keith, I have just resurrected my NR digital pro system and liked your post. I didn't quite follow the bit about the new charger connection. Were you referring to the charger connection on the head light unit where the battery connects? Also does the control swith still work the same way with the fuel guage? Thank

wjmartins said...

Great blog and post. I have exactly the same light, I can't remember but I think I purchased it almost 20 years ago? It was used for a year and went back in its box into storage.

I resurrected the light Sunday and did a 1 1/2 ride last night, using all the modes, had 1/4 charge left when I got home.

The battery replacement is a great idea, but do you know if one can get spare bulbs for these and where, in case I need them?

I'm not sure if we are missing anything with the new digital lights though, because if it comes to spending $70 for a battery and charger, perhaps it is time to convert to new technology?

Great Blog!!

Unknown said...

I realize this is a very old post but I too would like to resurrect my old set of digital pro 12. The only problem is that I don't have the wanter bottle pack since I sent it to niterider to see if they would exchange it which they refused to and never sent it back to me. My question is what do you suggest for termination of the battery pack in order to plug it into the light and also how to charge it back wit the charger you suggested since I see that the charger doesn't have a proper "plug" termination ?? thanks